Travelogues by Bill Pfeil
Cambodia
March, '07
In early March is the Buddhist holiday 'Ma Ka Bu Cha.' Thousands flock at dusk to the local ornate wat (temple) with gaudy golds/reds/oranges and pointy peaks, for this important Thailand holiday Flowers, incense and candles are required, much to the delight of smiling, tooth-challenged opportunistic vendors at the entrance. Couples and families make wishes to a giant blissful gold-plated Buddha statue inside, then walked 3 times clockwise (asked, no one knew why) around the wat with hands in 'wai' position (palms together in front of face) holding thought of wish. Beautiful sight at dusk with all the moving candles etc. Again to Buddha inside thanking for granting wish. Then you buy a cageful of baby birds (again smiling vendors) that you set free together for good karma and luck. Guess nobody wonders about the karma of those capturing the birds. This holiday is similar to another family-oriented holiday 'Loy Kratong' in November with homemade boats couples set afloat with flowers, incense, candles and wish es.
Most of this trip I was on the gorgeous Gulf of Thailand mid-peninsula - - days in a rented bungalow right on the sand, and nights with Mee in 'our' coconut farmhouse. Thailand is justifiably toughening visa restrictions. So finally I navigated the bureaucracies in Bangkok to get a U.S. Embassy income affirmation, then to Thai Immigration for 'Retirement' and 'Multiple-Entry' visas. No more counting days, visa runs, extending, overstays, etc.
I am now in Cambodia. The border seaside town of Koh Kong has a paved road around the central market, but dirt roads extending inland. Motorcycled miles of rural roads to their trail beginnings to see basic uniquely-designed huts but smiling people. The level of poverty in Cambodia is astounding. Made devastatingly worse by recent political atrocities. Fascinating exploring these rural sights and dreaming how to help these sweet Buddhist people. Minibused further south on the east Gulf coast with 4 river ferry crossing at classic jungle villages. A beer and a Kmer cutie who could speak some Thai in each village. Priceless. To Sihanoukville, Cambodia's fast-developing seaside resort destination, straight across the Gulf of Thailand from 'our' coconut farm. Learned about the corrupt politics here, most truthfully from the locals. Cambodia, like Burma, has an underground dollar economy. Residents in both countries are unhappy with their present situation. But I think both could have a bright future with politic al changes. Returning to Bangkok sights and delights, then home to my Molokai farmwork list soon.
Bill's Farm, Box 317, Kaunakakai, Hawaii 96748
Phone: 808-567-6734
Email: BillPfeil@yahoo.com
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