Travelogues by Bill Pfeil
Thai Boonies
October, '05
Some observations on rural Thailand living:
1. I have never felt unsafe here on this mid-Gulf of Thailand peninsula. The 3 southernmost provinces next to Malaysia should be avoided however because of increasing Muslim separatist terrorism provoking Thai government overreaction.
2. Farang (= foreigners) seem welcome by the generally very friendly Thais. Provided a low profile is kept. Here in Prachuap Province, I am the rare farang spectacle to neighbors, in our village, and the Sunday + Wednesday open markets (can buy anything cheap). Even toddlers can recognize foreignness and stare. Farang direct ownership of land is not permitted. Any accidents or disagreements are automatically the farang's fault.
3. Speaking Thai is recommended. Little or no English is spoken here mid-Gulf of Thailand peninsula. And rural Thailand hos no bargirls, or those heavy-drinking, heavy-smoking grotesque geezers they attract.
4. The Gulf of Thailand water is warm (gradual slope) and safe (except for winter giant red jelleyfish). Thais (especially girls) avoid the beach because they consider (incorrectly) dark skin is laborer low class.
5. As the Bangkok Post (interesting, funny read) reports, government corruption is rampant. The latest news from our village (from a German and his nice Thai wife I see every trip): loudspeakers have been recently installed along the coast to warn of tsunamis. But every 6-8 AM they blast advertisements for Singha beer, appliances, construction services etc. Payments reportedly go into the pockets of the local politicians who approved this absurd invasion of space. Our coconut farm is further into the boonies so we only faintly hear it.
6. Farang should not be queezy about going to the bathroom where at best there is just a squat toilet and a bucket of water. Took a while to figure this out. Curiously enough, at the dinner table and restaurants there is a roll of toilet paper for wiping fingers after eating.
7. Don't motorcycle over snakes winding across the road. They are said able to recoil up instantly, nail you, then you're dead.
8. Our village of Bang Saphan Noi ("Bahng Sapahn Noi") is near the narrowest part of western Gulf of Thailand. The isthmus is shared with Burma (Myanmar). It is possible to walk across Thailand here to the Burma mountains in a day. The ruling Burma military are brutal to their citizens and do not permit visitors except observed in Rangoon and Mandalay cities only.
9. Thailand's economy is vibrant and growing. New construction, shops and expansion of consumption is everywhere. Oh no, diminishing numbers of thin Thai girls in the future? That alluring gap between their legs going all the way up when they walk becoming less prevalent?
10. Television has come to rural Thailand. Some poor shacks even sprouting antennas. Popular daytime fare: stupid soap operas, stupider 'talent' shows, and stupidest game shows.
11. The trainride from Hua Hin (great gingerbread-house-like station) to Bang Saphan Noi must be the most scenic trainride anywhere. Especially from doorway or hanging out for full panorama. But careful thru jungle because brush is kept trimmed by train. And motorcycling from village of Bangrud (north of BSN) to Banburd (south of BSN) along the Gulf of Thailand must be the most scenic motorcycle ride anywhere.
12. It is gorgeous, fascinating and to me ultimately rewarding coming here.
Bill's Farm, Box 317, Kaunakakai, Hawaii 96748
Phone: 808-567-6734
Email: BillPfeil@yahoo.com
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